“Brunch is one of the most versatile ways to entertain on today’s scene. All it takes is a creative hostess, an imaginative menu, an inventive drink and a happy spirit.”
Girl Talk Magazine, April 1970
According to the Smithsonian Magazine, brunch was first mentioned in print in an 1895 Hunter’s Weekly article entitled, “Brunch: A Plea,” which was a call for a lighter meal after Catholic Mass. Etiquette books rarely mention anything like our modern brunch until the later 20th century. Going through the indexes of dozens of etiquette books, I can find no listing for anything called brunch during the early 20th century. Indeed, the closest thing to brunch in early etiquette is the The Breakfast party, the Hunt Breakfast or the English Country House breakfast though these are closer to a luncheon than our casual brunch, but they do serve as a precursor.
During the 1950’s brunch began to appear in Etiquette Guides, but it wasn’t common. Well into the 1960’s they still felt the need to explain what it was:
“The American weekend meal known as brunch is a combination breakfast and lunch, served around noon or later. It is essentially an informal occasion and the invitations are issued very often on the spot of the moment of a party the previous evening or by telephone. they may also be sent on informal, folded cards. One dresses informally, especially in the country or at resorts.”
Vogue’s Book of Etiquette, 1969
This early brunch was served at home and was modeled heavily after the Hunt Breakfast. Being American there were a couple of differences; the food was simpler and lighter. No kedgeree or courses. More importantly, Bruch almost always featured alcoholic drinks such as Bloody Marys. Brunch is really cocktails in the afternoon. That is one of the most significant differences between brunch and “The Breakfast”, you were more likely to see tea, coffee or fruit juices at breakfasts, champagne or cocktails at brunch. Most brunches were served buffet style and when possible, outdoors.
In Girl Talk Magazine, the author extolls the rage among celebrities for this new, exciting form of entertaining. Even remarking that, “In New Orleans, where coming-out parties are going the way of crinolines and plantations, the debut brunch is coming in as the accepted way to present daughters.”
Brunch really hit its peak in the 2000’s. Restaurants caught on that this is a way to serve traditional and simpler foods, sell loads of champagne with the likelihood that people will show up in large groups.
Sunday Brunch at home is still a terrific way to entertain. Guests are thrilled to sleep in, roll out of bed, show up dressed casually and be fed rich foods early enough in the day that they don’t have to go to bed stuffed and have plenty of time to work off those bloody marys.
I hope you all had a lovely Sunday afternoon. Sending you much love, Cheri.
